Thursday, 9 July 2020

Kodopal - The glistening dewdrop

I traveled miles, for many a year,

I spent a lot in lands afar,
I’ve gone to see the mountains,
The oceans I’ve been to view.
But I haven’t seen with these eyes
Just two steps from my home lies
On a corn of paddy grain,
A glistening drop of dew
Kodopal is so apt to remind the beautiful lines of Kabiguru Rabindranath Tagore.

About Kodopal:
Kodopal - from the riverbanks of Dulung
Kodopal is a developed delta-land at the convergence of river Dulung and Subarnarekha and located near about 45kms from Jhargram. It is a pilot Agro tourism project of the Government of West Bengal developed around 400 acre of sandy fertile land. Local name of this delta is Majulir Char. The nearest locality is Rohini village of Sankrail block, Jhargram.

Life in Kodopal: River crossing to School

Formerly this area was totally remained unrevealed with many social taboos and malpractices. According to local sources, this little island of Dulung and Subarnarekha River was naturally formed around a hundred years ago. The area covered in a dense bushes and Maoist activities also reported long back. Now as the fear of Maoist has gone the area has developed as an agro-tourism center under a comprehensive project of production income eco-tourism continuum naming ' Kodopal Eco - Nest and Biological Fruit Basket’.

The Journey:
Lovely drive through country roades on the way to Kodopal
We started from heart of the city (Rabindrasadan) and it was around a 6hr long journey to Kodopal. On the way, we had our breakfast in Kolaghat & lunch at Rohini.
Crystal clear river water
A bullock cart on its way
On the way through the river streams
We reached the riverbank of Dulung by afternoon. There are options to ferry across the island or take a walk to the Eco Nest. 
We preferred the second option through the ankle deep river stream. It was around two-kilometer pleasant walk. Our luggage carried through bullock cart to the stay. 

Kodopal Eco-Nest:
Kodopal Eco-Nest : Entrance Gate

As we explored the Eco-Nest Park, we found there is a multi-purpose organic farming farm with various fruit and flower gardens supporting the name “Fruit Basket of Bengal”. Along with various fruit & flower gardens, seven luxurious double bed cottages that Eco Nest offers to its visitors. 

These cottages well furnished with sufficient amenities and made in a beautiful environment. 

Eco-Nest Cottages and Surroundings captured from watch tower
There is also a 40 feet high watchtower to see the pleasant surroundings around the cottage. The environment of larger landscape also captured from top of the watchtower.
Eco-Nest cottages : night view




On the island all meals provided by a caterer, whom we have contacted from Rohini. There are no food options or shops in the island. The caterer provides fixed menu and dynamic changes on food items are not possible as all ingredients are carried to the island from Rohini by crossing the river stream. However, I must say, the food quality was great and all of the preparations was finger-licking delicious.
The area has no electricity. There are solar options & a generator-set for power, which was available from 12noon to 1am but also had power breaks in-between. It was pitch dark after the lights go off.


Activities:

During the walk inside the Eco-Nest fruit garden
Here the urban tourists can engage in farming activities, experience the bullock cart, tractor ride, fly kites, eat authentic food, understand the local culture, enjoy the folk songs and dance, buy fresh farm produce fruits and vegies.





The area will also raise interest for bird-watchers. I had a good 2 hours birding and spotted quite a few feathered friends around. The following species recorded in an approx. two hours birding span-
·         Indian Cuckoo
·         Indian Roller Bird
·         Green Bee Eater
·         Small blue kingfisher
·         White breasted common kingfisher
·         White Wagtail
·         Grey Heron
·         Asian Pied Starling
·         Black Drongo
·         Red-wattled lapwing
·         zitting cisticola
·         Black winged kite
·         Paddyfield Pipit
Black winged kite


Zitting Cisticola


Paddyfield Pipit
Hornet Bug


Information:
·         Staying at Kodopal can be booked from Sankrail Panchayat Samiti office
·         Contact for the catering at Rohini (They helps in booking the Eco Nest cottages) –
o   Srijani Wadding Planner
§  Contact - 9064252884
 

Sunday, 28 January 2018

Temple Tales : Brief History of known & unknown temples of ancient Bengal

Temple of Bengal possess rich history as well as architectural brilliance. Some of these historical temples are well-known thus well maintained and some of are placed away in an alley inside the village waiting for utter testament of time to crumble down. We explored some of these temples with our fellow travelers (from Kachha Kachhi Pothe Prantore https://www.facebook.com/groups/itsKKPP/) in recent times between April to December 2017. Below are the tales of these temples as gathered from various sources & witnessed during the visit.

Gaja Lakshmi temple at Amragari, Howrah :
Gaja-Lakshmi temple at Amragari
The temple has a “Aat Chala” (eight eaves) design and most likely built on 1729 by Roy family of Howrah. The temple is abandoned and thus puja offerings are also being stopped for quite some times. As a result, the temple is in ruinous condition and gradually decaying down to complete demolition.
The main idol Gaja Lakshmi (goddess Lakshmi riding an elephant) is shifted to an adjacent building where it's worshiped.
Terracotta works on the temple

Interestingly Gaja Lakshmi temples, idols as well as worshipping Gaja Lakshmi is rare in Bengal. Gajalaxmi Puja is widely celebrated in Odisha with great passion especially in Dhenkanal district. Gajalakshmi is also worshiped in many places in Goa and Konkan as a fertility goddess.
In Gaja Lakshmi idol goddess is depicted seated on a lotus, flanked on both side by an elephant (gaja). Goddess usually seated in Padmasanayogic posture, and has four arms. In each of her upper pair of arms, she carries a lotus, and the lower hands are generally shown in abhya (gesture of fearlessness and also the gesture of reassurance and safety) and varadamudra (indicates a gesture by the hand and symbolizes dispensing of boon). The elephants flanking her are shown as pouring water from their trunk over the goddess.

Dadhi Madhav Temple at Amragari (Amta - Howrah) :
This is also an eight eaves designed temple that was built on 1764 by the Roy family.
Dadhi-Madav temple and its beautiful terracotta worked walls
Janaki Ballav Temple (Tilantapara, Midnapore):
Janaki Ballav Temple at Tilantapara
Terracotta decorated wall
Janaki Ballav Temple was built on 1810 by Maity Zammindar family of Tilantapara, Midnapore. This seldom-visited temple has constructed in pancharatna style. 
This unfamiliar temple contains rich terracotta works of its four walls. Three facades the decoration is in terracotta, while on the fourth side it is in pankha or plasterwork. The terracotta works depict stories from the great Indian epic Ramayana. Also there are references of daily life as well such as people sailing on a boat, hunting with elephant etc. are also can bee seen.

Beautiful terracotta panels in Janaki Ballav Temple
We found the temple is well maintained and regular warship & puja offerings is also evident. The temple is newly painted and thus has lost the original charm of terracotta colors. The mansion of the Maity Zamindars are also almost ruined and waiting for complete demolition over time. Only some skeleton of the structure is still standing and carrying out the lone existence of history. 

Sribati Shiva Temples (Sribati, Burdwan) :
Sribati Shiva temple at Sribati, Burdwan
Sribati is a little village situated in the midst of Burdwan district, near Katwa town. It’s a small and quaint village wrapped in history with number of temples housing the terracotta wonders. These beautiful terracotta temples are built by the Chandra family who were once very rich traders and residents of Sribati. It is said that the family had their origins in Gujrat and their forefathers came to Bengal about 300 years ago and set up trade at this village. The family prospered and they owned several barges and boats which sailed upstream and downstream with various merchandise including salt. In a very short span of time the Chandra family earned enough to build themselves a huge mansion, and several temples dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Terracotta panel at Sribati Shiva temple
The Shiva temple we visited is located right beside the mansion. 
The temple courtyard consists of three temples. Left: Bishwashwar, Centre: Bholanath Right: Chandaneshwar
The Centre temple is built in Pancharatna Style (five tips each at the four corners and one at the center). The centre temple is flanked on both side by two Deul style temples. The right hand one contains octagonal base and the left consists of a square base. The central temple houses the white Shivalinga of Bholanath. The octagonal and the square temple respectively contain the black Shivalingas of Chandaneshwar and Bishwashwar respectively. These temples are believed to be more than 200 years old.

Ananndamoyee Temple at Sukharia ( Sukharia, Somra Bazar Hoogly ) :
Mansion of Mitra-Mustafi family at Sukharia, Hoogly
Anandamoyee temple at Sukharia
The village of Sukharia is associated with the Mitra Mustafi family. Mitra is a Hindu surname & Mustafi is a title. As per history this title was given them by none other than Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1704. The Mitra-Mustafis were accountants or treasurers to the Mughal Badsha’s ( Kings).

The Mitra-Mustafi’s financially flourished quite a bit during their tenure as a Dewan of Mughal Empire and built quite a few mansions and temples in Ula Birnagar & Sripur. Soon the Mitra-Mustafi’s zamindari territory expanded to Sukharia, Gopinagar etc. in subsequent generations. 

Mitra-Mustafi’s owns Sukharia on 1757 and maintained their tradition to build temples and mansions there as well thus making Sukharia as one of the temple village in ancient Bengal.

In this temple village, the most glorious of the lot is the 25 pinnacled Ananda Bhairavi temple also known as Anandamayee temple The Anandamayee temple complex was constructed around 1813 by Bireswar Mitra-Mustafi. The temple, dedicated to Goddess Kali. Beautiful terracotta works are crafted all over the walls of the temple.
Terracotta works of the temple

The images that adorn the walls are primarily of gods and goddesses and mythological in nature. Also there are references of daily life as well such as people sailing on a boat, Master taking their food and being fanned by women and even soldiers marching with arms.

The Kali temple is flanked by two parallel sets of smaller temples, featuring six temples in each row. Two out of them are pancha-ratna (5 pinnacles) and the rest are aat-chala (8 roofed). One of those pancharatna temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha and the remaining eleven belongs to Lord Shiva. Just beside the temple complex, a big pond is also present which gives a wonderful mirror image of the entire temple complex.
Anandamoyee temple courtyard and surrounding smaller temples

The Siddheswari Kali temple – the oldest temple of Sukharia, Somra Bazar :


Ananta Basudev Temple, Banshberia – Hoogly:
The temple complex has another temple — Ananta Basudev temple — besides the main temple.
Ananta Basudev temple
In 1656, the Mughal emperor appointed Raghab Dattaroy of Patuli (a village in Burdwan district) as the zamindar of an area that includes the present-day Bansberia. It is said that Raghab’s son Rameshwar cleared a bamboo grove to build a fort, inspiring the name Bansberia. 
Raja Rameswar Datta, was a keen disciple of Vaishnavism. He left Patuli in 1673 and settled in Bansberia.  As per history he received a huge piece of land (around 401 acres) from Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb as gift. for his loyal service of procuring tax from other zamindars. He constructed Ananta Basudev temple in 1679 in this land and dedicated to Lord Krishna as an expression of his devotion towards Vaishnavism.

The Basudev temple is constructed in the traditional ekaratna style with curved molding in the top corners and contains an octagonal tower. 

Terracotta panels as seen in the temple




Three sides of the one-stored temple are richly decorated with terracotta panels. The terracotta works depict stories from the great Indian epics Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as from lilas of Krishna. Also cultural reference such as singing, dancing at stage and in boats as well are evident from the terracotta work.

Rameshwar Roy’s grandson Raja Nrishingho Debroy believed more in Tantrik (occult) powers and he built the Hangseswari temple just beside this Basudev Temple.

o
View of Hangseshwari temple from Ananta Basudev temple 

Hangseshwari Temple, Banshberia – Hoogly:
This is a Kali temple built by Raja Nrishingho Debroy at Bashberia in Hoogly around 1814. Hangseshwari was name of the king's mother. The main deity is the blue neem-wood idol of the four armed goddess of Hanseswari, a manifestation of Goddess Kali.
Hangseshwari temple at Banshberia
The then king of Bansberia Nrishingho debroy got started the construction of the temple in 1801 and was completed in 1814 under the guardianship of the second queen Sankari Devi at a cost of five lakh rupees. Five story’s built according to Tantric theory indicating five parts of human body namely - 1. Ira,2. Pingala,3. Susumna, 4. Bajraksha,5. Chitrini. The towers are created like lotus buds and wood is used at several places of the facade.

Shutterbugs can also get wonderful mirror image of the temple from the pond situated just beside the temple complex.

Wednesday, 1 March 2017

JHARGRAM - JHILLI : Birding at queen of tribal forest

Trip date: 11th - 12th February 2017
Jhargram was in my mind for quite some time being a jungle lover. However haven’t picked up the spot as a weekend destination in years for various reasons.
This time I got a chance to share my trip with a group of like-minded trotter who loves to explore places.
Jhargram Station
Arig Chakraborty was the troop leader and we were a gang of 12 men with age ranges from 24 to 66. The path of journey as we decided was from Jhargram to Jhilli – the birding hot-spot of the heritage forest of Hatibari. Jhilli is a quite famous picnic spot in Jhargram. Evidently, Jhilli is full of fun till daylight is there, as after the sun sets, the area gets completely deserted. However zealous and nature lovers can still stay there as there are couple of small cottages that can accommodate 2 to 3 persons in each of them. However since we were a group of 12, we did carried 3 tents to accommodate ourselves comfortably.

The Journey:
There are regular train services between Howrah & Jhargram. We opted for ISPAT express and the journey took three hours from Howrah to take us to the gateway of Jangal Mahal. ISPAT departed from Howrah by 7am and we reached Jhargram by 10 o’clock in the morning.
Once we reached Jhargram, the next action point was to hire 2 cars that will take us to Jhilli. Getting cars was never been easy as no driver was willing to stay in the night at Jhilli as there were no arrangement of night halt for drivers. However we were lucky enough to convince couple of Mahindra Bolero drivers to serve the purpose. We picked up 5 mattress and pillow set in rent for our tents and leave to our destination at Hatibari forest after a quick but stodgy breakfast in a road side hotel.

 En route to Jhilli:
Jungle pathway to Kanak-Durga Temple
Chilikagarh Kanak Durga Temple: We made our first stop to Chilikagarh Kanak Durga Temple. It was around 11 Km distant from Jhargram town. We took a jungle pathway to the temple from our parking spot. The temple courtyard consists two temples, one is brand new and another is very old that almost in a decaying state.


Decaying History: Old Kanak Durga temple at Chilikagarh

There were plenty of Hanuman langurs seen in the temple premises.  Devotees, tourists and visitors are found happily feeding them around. We too had a good photo session with them. 
Sacred : Adoring mother-son Hanuman Langur's at Kanak-Durga temple Chilikagarh






Water walk : Dulung river Chilikagarh






There was a walking route to jungle beside the old temple that took us to Dulung river flowing nearby. The river was almost dry, only some scattered water streams flowing behind the rocks on the river bed.
After exploring the temple and Dulung river side for around 40 minutes we move ahead to our next stop to Chilikagarh Palace.

Chilikagarh Palace:
We moved further around 3 KM from Kanak Durga Temple to reach the Chilikagarh palace which is locally called as Chilikagarh Rajbari. 
Chilikagarh Palace courtyard


Chilikagarh Palace





Chilikagarh Rajbari is an empty palace that hosts 2 temples in its courtyard. The palace contains a huge enclosure with history spattered everywhere. Unfortunately owing to poor maintenance of the empty palace it appears to be typical ghost house in horror flicks.
Radha-Krishna temple at Chilikagarh Palace courtyard





 Gopiballavpur: By the time we left Chilikagarh palace it was already midday noon and we had to arrange our rations for night stay in Jhilli from some local market. Gopiballavpur was the nearest big stop from where we can get all necessary items. Gopiballavpur is around 48 km from Jhargram and it took us around 1-1.5 hour drive to reach Gopiballavpur. Jhilli was 10-12 km from Gopiballavpur. We started for our final destination Jhilli after a filling lunch from a road side dhaba on the way.


Sunset at Jhilli
Jhilli: When we reached Jhilli it was almost sunset time. We have been welcomed with the chirping/twittering by huge gangs of migratory birds in the lake.
But we didn’t had much time to enjoy the sunset as we need to set up our tents as early as possible till we have the day light as the place doesn't have electricity. Finally tent was set after a collective efforts from the team. We are all set to enjoy the full moon night in Jhilli.


Welcome to Jhilli : Garden Lizard at Jhilli

Moonlight chit-chat: Beside Jhilli lake
It was a mesmerizing environment under the moonlight with star studded dark night sky. We sat beside the lake and spent the moonlit night with bit of snacks and drinks with the fellow trotters. We sang, we chatted and shared our photography/travel experiences before went to bed after a sumptuous dinner with roti and chicken curry prepared in typical tribal style. We all were excited to explore the place in the morning.


Wish wings: group of Lesser whistling ducks 
Woke up with fellow birder Diptesh around 6am in the morning. The sunlight and weather was just appropriate for a great session of birding. As I explore the place, found that the place contains a large water reservoir surrounded by lush greenery. Paddle boating facility is also available in the reservoir. We use the boat to its best to sail through the reservoir and get as closer as possible to our feather friends.


Pair of Cotton pigmy goose




Purple Heron: Standing tall at Jhilli bird sanctuary
Lone sailor: Northern Pintail sailing through
Marsh-landers: Purple heron stands tall in the group of lesser whistling ducks
The following species are recorded in a 2-3 hours birding span-
  • Northern Pintail
  • Common Coot
  • Lesser Whistling Ducks
  • Cotton Pigmy Goose
  • Little Grebe
  • Pheasant Tailed Jacana
  • Bronze Wing Jacana
  • Purple Heron
  • Shikra
  • Indian Cuckoo
  • Indian Roller Bird
  • Green Bee Eater
Little Grebe
Migratory birds visit this place during the winter and hence best time for birding starts from November mid itself. I believe we could have spotted more bird species if visited by December/January.
Green bee eater












 Subarnarekha river side from Hatibari forest:
Subarnarekha river side from Hatibari forest
We leave the place by 11:30 am after a late breakfast. We left Jhilli to visit Subarnarekha river side in Hatibari forest. It was just 3 km from Jhilli. We had a little but a refreshing halt with unforgettable panorama of the river along with dark green forest in its shoreline. We also had a stop at Sidhu-Kanu-Birsha bridge which offers the best view of the river.
River-scape: Subarnarekha river line from Hatibari forest
Trip closure:
It’s time to go back to our city life again. We concluded our weekend trip by visiting our last destination Jhargram Palace. Travelers can visit this place as a part of Jhargram site seeing. It also has accommodation for tourists with previous booking. 
As I headed towards my daily city life I realize the actual attraction of Jhargram is its evergreen forestry. There are many more places to explore as Jhargram contains hill ranges in Kankrajhor, Belpahari and beautiful river lines of Kangsabati, Tarafeni, Subarnarekha and Dulung. It’s a time to bid goodbye with a wishful heart to come back again and explore the serenity of the queen of jungle.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Information:
* Best time to visit: November to February

* Places to stay: 

1. Stay in bungalow at Jhilli. Booking: Jhargram Tourist Development Committee, BDO, Chatinasol, Gopiballabhpur, Paschim Medinipore. Tel: 03221-266240.

2. Stay at Hatibari Forest: Shalboni Retreat (Maharaja Udyanbati ) 
Mr. Bhaskar Dasgupta (9432863167, 9331041352)

3. The palace resort Jhargram: Email:jhargrampalace@gmail.com
Phone: +91 9635269416 / +91 3221255401

* Good to carry:
      - Odomos mosquito cream
            - Big Torch, Candle, Matchbox
             - Binocular
            - Notebook and pen if you would like to note down the names of birds species

          ** Good to carry for staying at Jhilli and Hatibari Forest

4. Touring Partners : Kacha Kachi Pasha Pashi (https://www.facebook.com/groups/itsKKPP/?ref=bookmarks)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All Photos © Prabuddha Samaddar